I had a fitful night’ sleep. Mostly because of the surroundings being
new to me and the fact that I was sharing a room with 11 other girls any of
whom could end up not at all what I anticipated before I went off to sleep… I
had vague dreams of the girls ganging up on me and ragging me or something. But
the girls were nothing like those horrid dreams… they were sweet and soooo
enthusiastic and very noisy… not that I minded their girlish giggles and talks…
it just reminded me of college.
Since I was up by 5:30 a.m., I faced no problem with the bathroom; the
scene was quite different about an hour and half later because everyone wanted
to be off exploring. I remember this one girl who kept on giving up her turn to
use the bathroom for those 40 winks. She got up only when her friends left the
room without her but she optimised her morning routine in such a way that she
was out of the room in under 10 minutes…. Wowww!!! I don’t know how people do
that. Tip: If you are staying in a hostel
and you have a trip early in the morning and your morning routine is not
elaborate but not so very simple either, try to get ready much before because
at the nth moment it is bound to be chaotic.
I had the typical Scottish breakfast including their famous porridge
even though I am not a fan but when in Scotland, do as the Scots do… so.
I was all set for my tour of St. Andrews and the Fishing Villages of Fife.
Tip: Book any of the local tours after
reading what the visitors had to say about the trip especially about the tour
guide who in some cases of small travel groups also doubles up as the driver.
Please ensure that you know exactly where the departure point is and the time
of departure from there; otherwise they may very well leave you behind. If the guides are local Scotsmen who are proud
of their heritage and are willing to share the history of the beautiful places
on the tour map, like my tour guide for e.g., then believe me when I say, it is
going to be quite an eventful ride.
We left Edinburgh and crossed the iconic Forth Bridge which is a
cantilever railway bridge over the Firth of Forth designed by two English
engineers Fowler and Baker. The traditional rivalry of the Englishmen and Scots
were evident even now in the guide’ voice when he spat out that this UNESCO
heritage site was designed by Englishmen. From 1890 to 1917, it was the longest single cantilever bridge span in
the world till the Quebec Bridge in Canada opened; since then it has continued
to remain at second spot.
We continued to Aberdour which our guide claimed to
be a photostop. We soon found out why… because here was this seaside town which
had two beautiful beaches (one of them - The Silver Sands is one of finest
beaches in Scotland with its sands gleaming like silver and the view… OMG so
beautiful since it overlooks the Firth of Forth towards Edinburgh & The
Lothians), a harbour (the other beach Aberdour Black Sands is nearby and is
stark in contrast to the Silver Sands beach), castle (built by the Douglas
family in 13th century and includes a gallery, painted ceiling, garden,
and a church on its grounds), golf course and a choice of traditional pubs and
shops.
Aberdour was just the beginning. As we drove into the East
Neuk of Fife to the town of Anstruther, I realised that the beauty of
these fishing villages was something that should not be missed and I was happy
I had booked this tour. Now, Anstruther is a fishing village and home to the
Scottish Fisheries Museum but apparently now people throng this village for
some real quality fish supper from the Anstruther Fish Bar which won a number
of awards including UK Fish and Chips Shop of the year (I am a vegetarian, so I
missed this stop). Tip: If you are not
travelling as part of a tour group like this, you should stop at Cellardyke, the
adjoining harbourside village east of Anstruther and also take a boat trip to
the Isle of May for some seal watching. I plan to take these stops the next
time around…
We continued towards St. Andrews while listening to some
Scottish songs (our guide made us sing some lines too and that was fun) and we
crossed the beautiful villages of Pittenweem, Crail and St. Monan’s all the
while listening to the tales of noble and fierce Scottish warriors.
We had a three-hour lunch stop at St. Andrews where we were going off on
our own so in preparation, our guide told us all there was to know about St.
Andrews. I remember most of it since I had written it down but one thing that I
remember very well without writing it down was that ‘Prince William and Kate met while studying at St. Andrews University’
which BTW is the oldest university in Scotland (maybe it was because our guide
was touting it as the love story of this decade or maybe I am an incurable
romantic).
So, besides that romantic love story brewing here at St. Andrews, it is
famous also because it is known as the ‘Home of Golf’. Our guide proudly
told us about golf being played here since early 15th century and The Royal and Ancient Golf Club that was
founded in 1754 and the famous links which has been the venue for the British
Open Championships since ages.
I started my walk at the Medieval Centre which is essentially just
cobble-stoned paths and alleys through to the Castle and the old ruined Cathedral.
The relics of St. Andrew, apostle of Jesus were stored here after being brought
to Scotland by St. Regulus; a church dedicated to this saint is adjacent to the
ruined Cathedral. Tip: If you are up to
it / missed your gym workout and have enough time, climb the spiral staircase
to get the finest view this side of Scotland.
The Lade Braes is a popular public footpath which follows the route of
an old mill lade whose function was to transport water from the Kinness Burn to
the mill in the grounds of St Andrews
Cathedral Priory and
may have been built in early 12th century. The walk is about 1.5 miles (2.5 km) long and runs from Little Carron on
Hepburn Gardens to Lade Braes Lane at Madras College.
St. Andrews University with its ivy-clad buildings, quadrangles and
gardens dominate this place and you cannot miss this beautiful place.
The West Sands beach is just breathtakingly beautiful and rightly thus,
it was snagged to be part of the movie ‘Chariots of Fire’ and also 2012 Summer
Olympics Opening Ceremony in the torch relay.
In short, lot of photo opportunities in this town and for a history buff
like me, it was a goldmine.
We left St. Andrews and on our way back to Edinburgh, we traveled
across Lomond Hills. Tip: If you love
walking, and you are not travelling as part of a tour group like this, then the hiking
trails in these hills should not be missed.
Our guide sang yet other Scottish songs and told us the history of Robert
the Bruce and Mary, Queen of Scots. That set the scene for Loch Leven and its
ruined castle where Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned for a year after
surrendering to her noblemen who opposed her marriage to the Earl of Bothwell
and she was forced to abdicate as Queen in favour of her infact son James. Her
heroic escape a year later to the Lothians with the help of her gaoler is
legendary in these parts.
We then made our final stop at South Queensferry where our guide told us
about the traditional Ferry Fair dating back to the 12th century,
the Burry Man (man covered with Burrs) whose processing is taken out during
this fair, and the more recent Loony Dook where people bathe in the cold waters
of the Firth of Forth on New Year’ Day to possibly cure the hangover.
I was tired that night but my mind raced with all the history I had heard
and the beauty I had witnessed.
No comments:
Post a Comment