I flew in from London Heathrow to the Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino
Airport in Rome. To get to Rome City Center from here by public transport,
there are two main ways that you can take –
Leonardo Da Vinci Express from Fiumicino to Stationze Termini which is
the central station in Rome; or
Terra Vision shuttle from outside Fiumicino Airport to Rome City Centre
/ Stationze Termini. This takes about 45 to 55 minutes and a shuttle is
available every 20 minutes.
I chose the 2nd option in the interest of personal safety because
I was travelling alone to Rome for the 1st time and I had read that
the Express train stopped at a remote platform.
I stayed in a hostel after my very good experience in other cities of
Europe quite close to Stationze Termini. I selected two tours for seeing Rome
by day and by night. These were from Dark Rome tours (
www.darkrome.com). I would strongly recommend that if you are
in Rome for the weekend and you want to not only see all the important places
but know their history, then a local guided tour is the best thing to do. I
loved both the tours from Dark Rome and I found that Tripadvisor had maximum 4.0
reviews of this tour operator and so, it was not a difficult choice to make.
The first tour was that of the Colosseum and the best of Rome. I could
have taken either the bus (No. 175) or the Metropolitana (B line) from Stationze Termini in the direction of Laurentina; Colosseo
is the 2nd station from Termini.
However, since it was a bright morning and I wanted to visit the
churches nearby, I decided to walk. Armed with a map of Rome (I recommend this
to be your first buy), I went first to S. Maria Della Vittoria, a Roman
Catholic Church dedicated to Mother Mary built in Boroque style architecture.
It is on Via XX Settembre and it is well known for Gian Lorenzo Bernini’ masterpiece – The Ecstasy of St. Theresa which
is in the Cornaro Chapel. This is also the final resting place of St. Victoria
martyred for her Christian faith. Next up was S. Maria Degli Angeli which
is a Roman Catholic Church dedicated to Christian martyrs architected in
Baroque style by none other than Michelangelo
and you have to only see the interior to know his greatness even in simplicity.
I crossed the Teatro Dell ‘Opera
which is on Piazza B. Gigli on to Via Torino and stopped at the Piazza S. Maria
Maggiore which houses the church of S.
Maria Maggiore. This is the largest Catholic church in Rome and a Papal major
basilica courtesy its size. It is dedicated to Mother Mary and under the high
altar is the Crypt of Nativity which contains the holy wood from the crib of
Jesus Christ. The buried remains of St. Jerome (from my Travel Diary of Israel
is the one who has translated the pages of the Bible into Latin) lies here.
There is a large Sistine Chapel on the right, outside which lies the tomb of Gian
Lorenzo Bernini.

Impressed with the architecture and the styles of Gian Lorenzo Bernini
and Michelangelo, I walked on to Via Merulano and turned right on to Via
Labicana. There it was looming before me –
the Colosseum. Repair work was being
undertaken but still it cannot mar its beauty. I met the tour group leader not
before I took tons of pictures and selfies; skipped the line for tickets and
went straight inside (that is the beauty of going with a tour operator… you can
skip the huge lines and spend maximum time inside admiring the beauty and
splendor of the largest amphitheater in the world). Started by Emperor Vespasian
of the Flavian dynasty, it was completed by his son Titus. It is capable of
holding at least 50K people and was chiefly used for entertainment including
gladiator contests and drama enactments and even public executions. Pretty
barbaric to count for entertainment… still.

The seating arrangements had a social order to it – the socially
superior people sat closer to the arena whereas people of inferior rank and
women (yes, when the guide said that… I did wince) sat right up on top.
However, getting to your seat from the multiple (I think I heard more than 75) gates
or even the evacuation in case of an emergency has been designed with such
precision that it just makes you go ‘Goshhhh’ / ‘Woweeee’. Much of the
structure has been damaged due to natural causes and some of the travertine
stones were ‘moved’ to build the churches in Rome.
Beneath the arena (little of which remains), there is the hypogeum which is a maze of underground
tunnels to house the animals and slaves who would go by the vertical shafts to
fight in the arena. There is also a training ground for gladiators which also
provided for entertainment.
The Arco Di Constantino situated between Colosseum and the Palatine
Hill was erected to commemorate Constantine’ victory over Maxentius in the
Battle of Milvian Bridge which is depicted on this monument. But that is not
all, there are depictions of Emperor Hadrian, sacrifices to Hercules, Apollo,
Diana and other divine deities from classical Greek / Roman mythology.
Beyond this is Palatine Hill which as per legend
gets its name from the ancient city of Pallantium which later merged into
ancient Rome and hence the significance in ancient Roman mythology.

We then came to
Foro Romano (Roman Forum), a
rectangular plaza surrounded by the ruins of ancient buildings of Rome
including earliest shrines and temples (e.g. Temples of Vesta, Regia, Saturn
etc.) of ancient Rome. It is known to be the center of public life in ancient
Rome and has witnessed many a triumphant procession, contests, trials and other
aspects of public life and entertainment. At the northwest end lies
Arco
di Settimio which is a triumphal arch commemorating the Parthian
victories of Emperor Septimius Severus and his two sons - Caracalla and Geta;
it is only after Caracella assassinated Geta, all references to Geta were
removed.
We walked out to the Piazza del Campidoglio – Capitoline Hill;
one of the seven hills of Rome. It contains several ruins which have been
covered up by a spate of Renaissance palaces which are now the Capitoline
Museums all architected by Michelangelo.

Ahead was
Piazza Venezia which is like a central hub of Rome and takes
its name after Palazzo Venezia built by Pope Paul II. Here lies the
Altare
della Patria /
Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II,
a monument built in honor of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified
Italy. Most interesting is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with an eternal
flame, built under the statue of goddess Roma after World War I. It is
controversial because the building destroyed some of medieval neighborhood in
Capitoline Hill.
We walked down Via Del Corso to reach to reach Piazza Del Spagna. You cannot miss the baroque fountain - Fontana
della Barcaccia credited to Pietro Bernini, father of the famous
Lorenzo Bernini built after Pope Urban VIII was impressed by a boat brought
here by a Tiber river flood. Even harder to miss are the monumental 135 Spanish
Steps linking the Palazzo of the Holy See to the Spanish Embassy and
the Trinità dei Monti church above.
It was break time, and you have numerous pizzeria and trattorias to
choose from to eat. When in doubt, ask your guide who are very friendly and
kind. Being a vegetarian, I was recommended Suppli (croquettes with
melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella cheese), Gnochhi (semolina dumplings with that
tinge of nutmeg), crunchy pizza with cheese and tangy tomato sauce and pasta arrabbiata
(with really tangy tomatoes & peppers). One thing that had me wanting for
more was the gelatos (to die for at
all the places in Italy that I visited… Italians can’t go wrong with gelatos).

We walked down Via Del Corso to reach
Fontana Di Trevi, the
largest Baroque fountain in this city and certainly one of the most famous in
the world. It was designed by Italian architect Nicola Salvi but was completed
by Pietro after Salvi’ death. This fountain is the terminal point of
Aqua
Virgo; an aqueduct that supplied water to ancient Rome for over 400
years. As per a legend, a virgin directed thirsty Roman soldiers to a water
source outside the city of Rome and Emperor Augustus commissioned Agrippa to
build this aqueduct from the source to the ancient city of Rome and name it
after this virgin girl. Also interesting to note was the fact that originally Gian
Lorenzo Bernini was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII to build the Trevi Fountain
but the project was abandoned after the pope died. Yet there are distinct
Bernini touches to this fountain and the majority of the stone is travertine
from Tivoli which is the same stone present in the outer wall of the Colosseum.
Let the guide direct you to the spot from where you can throw coins in (
note: it is super crowded, so hang on to
yourself and your belongings).


Walk through
Piazza Colonna
and see
Palazzo Montecitorio which
is seat of the
Italian Chamber of
Deputies and originally designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini but was completed
later by Carlo Fontana under the aegis of Pope Innocent XII. Go through
Piazza Capranico and you will find the
Pantheon
looming right in front of you. This is also the site of
Campus Martius a publicly
owned area of ancient Rome and most populous in the Middle Ages dedicated to
the Roman God Mars. Although the completion of the present building of the
Pantheon is attributed to Emperor
Hadrian,
it has retained the original inscription from Agrippa who was commissioned by
Emperor Augustus during his reign to build it. Since the 7
th
century, it has been used as a church dedicated to Mother Mary and the Martyrs
informally called
Santa Maria Rotonda.
Piazza Navona is
the most elaborate piazza that I saw in Rome. Built on the site of the Stadium
of Domitian in the 1
st century AD where Romans went to watch games,
it was declared a public space in early 15
th century when the
markets were moved here. It was only under the reign of Pope Innocent X whose
family owned the
Palazzo Pamphili* architected by Girolamo Rainaldi which was situated
in this piazza that it transformed into an example of Baroque Roman
architecture. In the center stands the famous
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi
by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, topped by the
Obelisk of Domitian the pieces of
which are from the Circus of Maxentius*, the church of
Sant' Agnese in Agone by
Francesco Borromini, Girolamo Rainaldi, and others.
Note: * 1. The Palazzo Pamphili accommodates the
long gallery designed by Borromini and frescoed by Pietro da Cortona. 2. The
Circus of Maxentius is a complex of buildings by Emperor Maxentius and a seat
of games held during his reign. I did not get a chance to visit but you can
take the Metropolitana A
line from Termini towards Anagnina and get down at Colli Albani and you can
take a bus to this place.
Piazza Navona has two other fountains - Fontana del Moro to the
south and Fountain of Neptune to the north, both sculpted by Giacomo
della Porta; Fontana del Moro has additions by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Fountain
of Neptune by Antonio Della Bitta. At the southwest end of the piazza is the
ancient 'speaking' statue of Pasquino, where social messaging that was otherwise
repugnant could be left anonymously to be then ‘spoken’ by Pasquino.
Next to Piazza Navona, built atop the ruins of the ancient baths of
Nero, lies Palazzo Madama which was completed in 1505 for the Medici
family and after the unification of Italy, it became the seat of the Senato del
Regno.
The markets in Piazza Navona have since moved to Piazza d. Campo Di Fiori which is a rectangular square south of
Piazza Navona. It get its name from the Middle Ages when it was a meadow and is
famous for its street markets; the various streets around this are named after
some trade.
If you are not too tired and if you are into art, you must not forget to
visit the Borghese Gallery which is housed in the Villa Borghese.
Cardinal Borghese who was the first owner of Villa Borghese was an avid art
collector of the works of Gian Lorenzo Bernini (most of his famous sculptures
like David, Apollo and Daphne, Rape of Proserpine to the bust of Cardinal
Borghese to his self-portrait painting are housed here), Caravaggio (paintings –
St. Jerome’ Writing, St. John the Baptist, Madonna Child & Serpent, Boy
with a basket of fruit, Young sick Bacchus), Raphael (paintings - The
Deposition, Lady with a unicorn) ), Titian (paintings - The Scourging of
Christ, St. Dominic) and others. The Borghese Gardens are supposed to be
beautiful but I was already running late so I skipped it.
I had booked a night walking tour with the same tour operator (
www.darkrome.com); I do admit that I wanted
to check for myself how Rome is different by day and night and hence this tour.
Note: Please be careful at night and only travel in groups.

We started at
Campo Di Fiori and moved on to
Piazza
Farnese which houses the identical twin fountains -
Fontana
della Piazza Farnese bearing the emblem of the Farnese family and Pope
Paul III who built the
Palazzo Farnese. The palazzo is one
of the important High Renaissance palaces; its building involved several High
Renaissance architects including Michelangelo, Giacomo della Porta and others.
It has been given to the French Government since 1936 for a period of 99 years
and serves as the French embassy.
We came to
Ponte Sisto which
connects Campo Di Fiori to Trastevere where many a Roman craftsmen go after a
hard day’ work to have an aperitivo. Legend about Ponte Sisto has it that
sometimes you can see a ghost carriage charging towards you carrying the female
Pope fleeing with the Church’ gold. I did not see any ghost or carriage but there
were some couples taking photographs or generally a stroll hand-in-hand across
to Trastevere which made it seem very romantic. We proceeded through Via Giulia
to the
Palazzo della Cancelleria. It is the earliest Renaissance
palace in Rome again in travertine stone mostly from the nearby ruins of the
Theatre of Pompey and the property of the Holy See housing the Papal
Chancellery. Moving on to the main road Corso Vittorio Emanuele, we crossed
over to Via Gov. Vecchio to the
Chiesa Nuova / church of Santa Maria in
Vallicella one of the principal churches of the Oratorians a religious
congregation formed during the Counter Reformation in the 16th century. We took
some in-roads which were deserted but I found comfort in the fact that I was in
the company of 21 other people including our guide. Our guide pointed out
pictures and photo frames of Mother Mary at all the corners; apparently it
deters the robbers who cannot rob while the Holy Mother of God is watching. Finally,
we reached the Ponte S. Angelo from where you can see
Castel S. Angelo looming
beyond in the moonlight. Actually what comes at you are the Baroque statues of
angels holding aloft elements of the Passion of Christ. This was originally commissioned
by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for him and his family. Legend has it that
Michael the Archangel appeared atop the mausoleum, sheathing his sword as a sign
of the end of the plague and hence the name and bronze statue of St. Michael
atop the castle.
Still marveling at the beauty of this amazing castle and St. Michael
looking down upon me, I went to the bus stop where I was advised by my
ever-helpful guide that buses no. 40 and 64 would take me to my hotel. I got
bus no. 40 and reached my hotel without any event.
Thus ended my Rome city tour by day and night. I could not do some parts
of Rome but I got some advice from the girls at my hostel – take the map and go
on any route and when you get too tired, either drop into the numerous
trattorias or pizzerias or hop onto one of the buses on the route or the
Metropolitana. Next time maybe. For now, I was happy with the piazzas, fontanas,
palazzos and most of all the people and the food especially gelatos.